I absolutely love cookery programmes; the most relaxing viewing in the world. The best ones for me are a cross between travel and food, and recently I’ve been exploring Europe from my sofa with Rick Stein as he heads off on a series of Long Weekends. Because he’s Rick Stein, famous for his Cornish seafood restaurants, his destinations invariably involve a stunning coastal city where fresh fish is abundant.
Seeing such a variety of fish and seafood being transformed into mouth-watering meals of varying complexity makes me sad that, on the whole, we are really not that inventive in this country with our approach to fish. And that’s such a shame because it really has so many nutritional benefits – and it tastes delicious.
WHAT’S IN A FISH?
Fish is a great source of protein, which we need to provide the essential amino acids that support growth and cell repair. Our bodies can’t produce these acids and we must get them from our diet. Eating a variety of fish helps us to get a good range of nutrients, and it’s recommended that we eat at least two portions a week, with one being an ‘oily’ fish like salmon, sardines or mackerel.
These oily fish contain high levels of omega 3, or ‘good fats’, which are vital for supporting good brain health. They are also a source of vitamins such as vitamin D, which aids the absorption of calcium for healthy bones, and B12, which helps to make red blood cells. Fish is also rich in minerals: white fish like haddock and pollack contain selenium and iodine, which help to regulate our metabolism.
The nutritional benefits of fish are continually being explored by experts, among them another Stein, John Stein, a professor of physiology at Oxford University. Rachel Kelly, writing in The Sunday Timeslast month, talked to Professor Stein – and yes, there is a link, he is Rick’s brother – who believes that a decline in the quality and variety of our diets, especially the amount of fish we eat, may be contributing to the alarming increase in mental health issues.
The average teenager apparently eats a tenth of the recommended weekly amount of oily fish, making them deficient in omega 3 as well as key vitamins and minerals. This is a marked change from our diets 100 years ago. It’s thought the link between fish and mental health may, in part, be because omega 3 is anti-inflammatory, and new research is establishing a link between inflammation and depression.
THE FLIP SIDE
All this good news about the nutritional benefits of a fish-filled diet comes with a warning. Sadly, mercury, a toxic metal emitted during the production of electricity in coal power stations, among other industries, has entered our oceans and is found in varying quantities in fish stocks.
Mercury is particularly bad for pregnant women and very young children because it has an impact on brain development and the nervous system. The NHS advises these people should avoid shark, swordfish and marlin, which carry the highest concentration of mercury, but some other sources also caution against eating too much tuna. The NHS also warns that babies should avoid shellfish because of the risk of food poisoning.
SUSTAINABILITY
Another consideration is how to ensure we protect the world’s fish stocks, and that can be a bit of a minefield. According to the Soil Association, overfishing has caused ‘one third of all fish stocks worldwide to collapse, and scientists are warning that if current trends continue all fish stocks worldwide will collapse within 50 years’.
Manufacturers and suppliers are keen to prove that they are supplying sustainably sourced fish, and you’ve probably seen the various ‘dolphin friendly’ logos on tins of tuna. Unfortunately, these logos all denote different standards, and buyers still need to check that tuna is pole and line caught and to understand which fishing areas are in danger – not an easy task when you’re placing your online food order or filling up your supermarket trolley.
At Snapdragons, our Soil Association Gold Catering Mark means we have to prove that none of the fish we buy is on the Marine Conservation Society’s Fish to Avoid list. You may have seen the blue-and-white logo on fish when you’re shopping, and this is the label to look out for if you’re going to up your fish intake with a clear conscience. Fish from the Marine Conservation Society’s Fish to Eat list, and Marine Stewardship Council or organically certified fish, also all comply with this standard.
FISHY FEASTS
Many children are wary of fish, especially if they don’t encounter it at home, but there are so many delicious recipes out there that we can help them to learn to love it. One of the things nobody loves is finding a fishbone in their dish, so always, always use filleted fish and, using gloved hands, feel carefully for missed bones before cooking.
Also, make sure your fish is as fresh as possible because an intensely fishy smell turns doubters away. Realistically, we tend to use frozen, tinned or vacuum-packed produce at nursery because of the quantities and costs.
At Snapdragons we have a few firm favourites which regularly appear on the menu. Home-made fish fingers using strips of hake or pollack dipped in flour, beaten egg and herby breadcrumbs, then drizzled with oil and baked. Or fishcakes of hake or salmon, lightly poached, flaked and formed into patties with mashed potato and chopped chives, dill or parsley, then cooked like the fish fingers above.
Less fiddly is to simply bake goujons of firm white fish scattered with paprika, bay leaves and a couple of lemon slices and sealed into a baking tray with a covering of greaseproof paper to stop them drying in the oven.
Smoked mackerel is very popular turned into pâté by blitzing it with cream cheese or crème fraîche, or what about an easy pasta bake with strips of kale wilted in with the pasta during its last couple of minutes of boiling? Tip the drained pasta and kale into an ovenproof dish, then flake in the smoked mackerel, add some crème fraîche, chopped chives and parsley, and top with breadcrumbs and a scattering of grated cheese before baking until brown.
A delicious cauliflower and potato gratin could also be taken up a notch with some flaked smoked mackerel mixed through before baking. Fish curry is always a winner too: try one made with firm white fish, sweet potato, mild curry spices and coconut milk to tempt tiny tastebuds.
Happy fishing!
MORE INFORMATION
www.thetimes.co.uk/article/my-cure-for-depression-is-cheap-and-tasty-with-chips-cg9prd9j5
Marine Conversation Society, www.goodfishguide.org
www.soilassociation.org/media/9214/standardshandbook_earlyyears.pdf
www.theguardian.com/environment/shortcuts/2016/jul/27/is-there-any-tuna-thats-to-eat-tesco
www.nhs.uk/Conditions/pregnancy-and-baby/Pages/foods-to-avoid-baby.aspx
Mary Llewellin is operations manager at Snapdragons. Snapdragons Keynsham has the Food For Life Partnership Gold Catering Mark and was winner of the Nursery WorldNursery Food Award in 2012 and 2014.
