It would perhaps seem strange to those generations that relied on the humble candle as their source of light that we would turn our backs on a far more convenient source - the light bulb! However, the candle now has a special significance for many of us. For example, children expect candles to be placed upon birthday cakes to aid in the celebration of another year passing. Many of us light a candle to remember those who are no longer with us.
Candles signify so much to so many that it is impossible to imagine a world without their existence.
Making your own candles is both a fascinating and addictive hobby. To create an item that can mean so many different things gives a buzz of pleasure not only for the maker but also for the person who is lucky enough to strike the match and light the wick for the first time.
Candle-making also encourages children to work as groups and develop understanding of numbers. So this activity can be used to build upon skills they have worked on during their school day.
EQUIPMENT
Like many hobbies, candle-making can be expensive. However, with a little ingenuity costs can be kept quite low. To start with, you will require the following items, some of which you should be able to find around the home; others will be available from hobby shops.
* Two pans of different sizes
* A mould (anything that can hold hot water with the lip bigger than the base would be suitable). However, shop-purchased moulds can be inexpensive and can be used again and again (see below)
* Candle wax (sold in bags as small beads of wax)
* Stearin (this is used to aid the burning of the candle and the removal from plastic moulds
* Wick (purchased in different widths to suit the size of candle being made) * Scissors
* Wax colour blocks (small blocks of coloured wax that can be added to the molten wax before or during pouring to give colour to the finished candle)
* Mould sealer (this is a putty-like substance used to seal the hole in the base of the mould)
* Cocktail sticks or pencils (to act as a wick support during the making process)
* Scales (to weigh wax and stearin)
* A wicking needle (if you do not have this then an ordinary needle with a large eye will suffice)
A BASIC CANDLE
To begin you will need to work out how much wax you require. The best method I have found so far is to fill the mould you are using one and a half times with wax beads. The next step is to work out how much stearin you require. This is done by weighing the wax and dividing this amount by ten. Now you are ready to make your candle.
* Place the wax beads and the stearin into the pans in order to melt. (Fill the larger pan with water and simmer, then place the second, containing the raw wax granules, inside, ensuring the water does not spill over the edge or boil dry.)
* While the wax is melting, cut the wick. To work out how much wick you need measure the height of the mould and add enough to thread through the hole at the base (which will become the top of the candle) and to tie securely around a cocktail stick.
* Your next step is to 'wick up' by dipping the wick into the molten wax, then holding it over the pan while it sets. Now thread the wick through the hole in the base of the mould; fix the wick into place using the mould sealant. Pull the wick tight and tie around the cocktail stick to hold the wick centrally in the mould.
* Now pour in - that is, gently pour the wax into the mould taking care not to go over the edge of the mould.
* Allow to cool. To speed the cooling process you can place the mould into a sink or bowl of cold water. Ensure that the water does not spill over the top of the mould.
* As the wax cools, a well forms around the wick. In order to overcome this problem you have to 'top-up'. Wait for the well and the crust to form on the surface of the wax, pierce the crust using a cocktail stick several times, then carefully pour a little wax into the well. Make sure you do not spill over the edge or it may be difficult to get the candle out of the mould when the wax has set.
MOULDS
Shop-purchased moulds come in a variety of forms. The most popular are rigid plastic moulds in one or two parts, but rubber moulds are also available.
* Do not add stearin to wax poured into a rubber mould as it will eventually rot the rubber.
* A plastic mould will not need support whereas a rubber mould will need to be supported on a cardboard frame within a glass.
* To remove air bubbles, a plastic mould can be tapped on to the work surface. To remove air bubbles from a rubber mould you gently tap the sides.
* A plastic mould will create a candle with a shiny finish, while a rubber mould will create a matt finish.
VARIATIONS
If you want to be more adventurous, why not try one, two, or more coloured stripes, chunk, ice, pour in pour out and scented candles. Here are a few basic instructions for making some of these more advanced candles.
Colour and scent
Colour comes in a variety of forms (in round blocks, in small pots as granules, or very similar to wax crayons). The colour can be added into the melted wax while it is in the pot. Just remember that once this is done then all of your candles will be the same colour. If you want to make candles in a variety of colours, melt the colour in an egg poacher, then add it to the mould as you pour in the wax.
To add scent, put one or two drops into the mould as you pour the wax.
Candle scent is very strong smelling, so be careful not to add too many drops or the finished candle may be a little overpowering.
Striped candles
Pour in the wax as normal, but only 1cm to 2cm deep. Allow to cool so that a crust forms. Pierce this crust with a cocktail stick and add a second colour. Continue in this way until the mould is full. To add extra interest you can place the mould on the slant while the wax is setting.
Chunk candles
To make chunks for this type of candle, pour some dark-coloured wax on to some baking foil about 2cm deep and allow to set. Then break into chunks.
Do not make them too small. Place them in the mould before pouring in the plain wax.
Ice candles
Wick up in the normal manner, then fill the bottom half of the mould with ice cubes and simply pour the wax over the top of the cubes.
Pour in, pour out
First make your plain candle as normal, but only let it set for a limited time, so that only the outer wax has set. Between 0.5cm and 1cm is fine.
Then pour the wax out of the mould. Now pour in a dark coloured wax and then finish off the candle in the normal way.
For signed copies of Lynne Garner's book Candle Making, contact the author at www.lynnegarner.com
STAY SAFE
* Never directly heat wax.
J Take care to ensure that the water does not boil dry and keep it simmering only.
* Wear old clothes.
* Keep work surfaces covered.
* Wax should not be hot enough to burn. If it is spilt on the skin run under a cold tap and gently remove.
* Find a safe out-of-the-way place to allow the candles to cool.
* Always ensure adult supervision.
